Denali Journal, Day 17: Camp IV (Holding Pattern)

[3:00 p.m., Camp IV Day 8]  The wind battered our tent all night long, although we were "heads-down" deep in our sleeping bags with the draw strings pulled to keep warm and to muffle the noise.  Every time I popped my head out to drink or pee in my pee bottle, I could see frost build-up everywhere in the tent, thicker than normal.  We slept in until about 10:15 a.m., when we got the call for "hots."  Shortly after breakfast (when I actually got served my first cup of real coffee in 3 or 4 days, thanks to Billy!), we got the new forecast for high on the mountain (Camp V and higher): 40-60 mph winds on Monday, increasing to 60-90 mph through Wednesday; today is supposed to be even worse, with winds up to 110 mph!!  Walter talked to several other guides and the ranger early this morning.  There is a lot of concern for those at Camp V (High Camp).  They are in for an even more serious beating today and it's turning into a serious survival situation.  There are also high winds at Windy Corner, so no one is moving up or down today.  We are, in a sense, pinned.  To the left, the LAMA on the day we arrived at Camp IV, picking up a Korean HAPE victim.

We have group food through Sunday, but Walter is working out solutions, including getting our cache at 16,200 ft and some unofficial assistance from the rangers, with whom Walter has great relations.  The high winds may prevent a cache run, so we'll see what happens.  "Tell your kids not to become a guide," Walter said, indicating to me that he is bumming and/or a bit stressed out by the situation (he handles it really well though).  

There is a Japanese team of 2 climbers that is 4 days overdue--they were climbing the Cassin Ridge, a technically challenging route, and no one has heard from them.  We found out today also that on the day that we arrived here (Saturday 5/17), the helicopter that we saw (the LAMA, a stripped down lightweight chopper) was here to evacuate a Korean climber with an advanced case of HAPE; the Korean teammates failed to tell the rangers until late in the game, but thankfully, the climber was able to be evacuated.  They had simply gone to Camp IV too fast!  

The mood around here isn't the super greatest but the team is holding out and making the best of it!  If we hadn't stayed at Camp II so long, we would have already made the summit and been in Talkeetna drinking beers!  Hindsight is 20:20, and I would venture that our guides would have a different opinion.  

I don't know how this is all going to play out, but for me, the window for a summit bid is gone and I need to get off the mountain.  Hopefully Walter can come up with something.

[9:16 p.m.] Walter arranged for me to depart with one of the AAI teams tomorrow morning at 9:00 a.m.  He will come and get me in the morning just to confirm and than make me a quick breakfast (yeah, Mike Walter rocks!).  I have most of my stuff packed right now and Walter will give me a freeze dried meal just in case we need to spend the night at Base Camp (heaven forbid!).  I will have Hudson Air Service call me as soon as they have an ETA for the group in Talkeetna and then drive back up to meet them for Ice Axe ales!  

We heard that there are still 25 people at High Camp getting battered and that a German team lost their tents in the wind and are now huddling with other teams.  It just sounds fucking miserable up there!  Also, no word on the Japanese Team yet either; it doesn't look good for them, unfortunately.  Their friends are waiting for them in Talkeetna... it's been a rough week on Denali!!